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Major Nikon

(36,827 posts)
Tue Oct 31, 2017, 10:25 PM Oct 2017

Trip report for Peru, Machu Picchu

Peru is a wonderful country to visit. There are many more things to see besides Machu Picchu, but I'll start with that.

Machu Picchu:
Getting here is a bit of a challenge. Lima is one of the few, if only, international airports in Peru, so generally speaking all roads go through there. The most common and probably easiest way to go is fly into Lima, clear customs, fly to Cusco, and then take the train to Aguas Calientes, from which it's a short bus ride to Machu Picchu. I'll cover more of the challenges later.

Weather is very much unpredictable. It rains a lot here all year long, so best to plan for this and hope you get a window of clear weather. The rainy season runs from December to March, and personally I'd avoid that time. Wear shoes that are moderately weather proof, comfortable, and grip well on smooth, uneven surfaces. Good hiking boots would work well, but I wouldn't say you really need them. Take a rain jacket and umbrella, or whatever you'd use for getting caught out in the rain as this will probably happen. Definitely take sun screen as it's a bit difficult to find in the markets. You'll need a decent hat that protects you from the sun, but those are readily available pretty much everywhere and are cheap.

The terrain is uneven with a lot of steps going up and down which can't be avoided. I wouldn't call it difficult, but those who are mobility impaired or very much out of shape are going to have a tough time. It takes about 3 hours minimum to do the entire site justice. The biggest climb is at the beginning and if I were to guess I'd say it's about like climbing 5-6 flights of stairs or perhaps a bit more. The remaining climbs and descents are much shorter.

If I had it to do over again I'd plan on arriving late at Aguas Calientes and spending the night there so you can hit the site early the next morning before the crowds get bigger. There's some good hotels, restaurants. and shopping here so you could definitely make a day of it. The train drops you off right in the middle of everything and it isn't a long walk to anything.

There are many options for hiking the Inca trail to Machu Picchu with 1, 3, and 5 day options being the most common. If I had it to do over again I'd probably do the 1 or 3 day hike. You don't really need to be a seasoned hiker to do this, but you do need to be in decent shape as the ascents are going to be moderately challenging. From what I saw of the trail it's well maintained.

There were a lot of people at the site, but I wouldn't say the crowds are prohibitive as the site is quite large and there's plenty to see.

Cusco:
Nice place to visit and at least for now pretty much all roads to Machu Picchu go through here. There's a lot to see and do so plan at least a full day here if not two. The main square contains most of what you'll want to see here. It's also a good launching point for day trips throughout the Sacred Valley.

More than likely you'll fly into Cusco as a bus over the Andes can take 19-24 hours. The airport is at 11,000' which presents significant problems for aircraft operating at such high altitudes. Flight delays and cancellations are common as is having your bags thrown off due to weight considerations. This happened to me and was a big pissor as I'm still waiting for my bag to get back home. There is another airport planned in the Sacred Valley which is reportedly going to be operational in 5 years, but the altitude is higher and will most certainly have some of the same issues. My advice is to pack very light and keep everything you need in a carry on for the entire trip. Wash your socks and underwear in the sink at the hotel or have them do your laundry. Take a compact duffel bag to use for souvenirs as a single checked bag.

Lima:
Lima is a large cosmopolitan area and offers most of the things you'd find at pretty much any large city. I stayed in the Miraflores area, which is a nice place. Traffic is bad and the options for public transportation aren't that great. If you like big cities there's plenty to see and do.

Peru in general:

Altitude can be a big problem here outside of Lima. Machu Picchu is at 8,000' and Cusco is at 11,000'. Some areas in the Sacred Valley go up to 14,000'. I saw people who I thought were quite healthy succumbing to altitude sickness, while elderly people had few problems. Personally I knew how I was going to react at high altitude, but if you don't know you'd best be prepared for the worst of it. The hotels in Cusco have oxygen available and you can buy portable oxygen kits at the hotels and pharmacies for about $10-15, but they don't last long. I have a bit of experience operating at high altitudes. If you feel symptoms, just sit down and breathe deeply and slowly for at least 5 minutes even if symptoms disappear sooner. The bottom line is altitude effects everyone differently and you shouldn't think that just because you're in good shape you won't have symptoms. I'm in great shape, but at 14,000' I can definitely feel it and I'm sure most people who aren't fully acclimated to high altitude will feel it there and at lower altitudes.

The language barrier isn't much of a problem. I know many Spanish phrases, but I'm certainly not fluent. The hotels and restaurants that cater to tourists will have English speaking employees. If you have a smart phone, Google Translate and others have options for downloading language sets which I found handy.

WiFi was available for free at all the hotels where I stayed. Public wifi can be found at many restaurants and coffee shops. Data roaming and cellular talk is expensive so check with your provider before you go to see what your options are. Skype is a good way to keep in touch.

I didn't see a single mosquito the entire trip, but was advised to keep the hotel windows closed at night. Repellent was readily available in the markets, which are everywhere in the tourist areas.

The local currency is soles which is currently 3.24 to the US dollar. Many places that cater to tourists will take USD, but it isn't like some places where the dollar is preferred. It's best to deal in local currency where possible. A few market vendors will take plastic, but most won't. Pretty much all restaurants and hotels that cater to tourists will take plastic. Some credit and debit cards will charge you an exchange fee while some will not. If you have an account at a bank (not credit union) you may be able to order soles ahead of time for no charge beyond the normal exchange rate. I found the prices to be quite good pretty much everywhere. Expect to pay about half what comparable goods and services will cost in the US and in some instances much less. A 15 minute Uber ride cost $2.78 USD and I picked XL over the basic option.

The CDC recommends Hep A and Typhoid vaccination for the entire country and others for the rain forest areas. I opted for the first two. The biggest risk is TD, which every seasoned traveler is going to be familiar with. I always pack loperamide wherever I go. You can decrease your risk by always drinking bottled water and hot drinks, and avoiding uncooked foods, but even at that you stand a good chance of getting it. Disinfectant wipes and good hand washing practices are your friend.

Cops are everywhere in the tourist areas and beyond. You'll also see a lot of concertina wire, fences, bars, and spikes around most homes and businesses. Seems a bit intimidating, but I never felt unsafe at any time.

The food is excellent and one of the best things about the country. Seek out local recommendations for the best restaurants and expect to pay about half what a comparable place in the US will cost for most things. As is the case with most places, buffet restaurants tend to cater more to the tour buses and the quality of food is lower, but the options are more plentiful and some feature excellent local entertainment. Many full service restaurants can be found at very high levels of quality and service.

Tourist markets are everywhere and lots of people are selling hand made goods on the streets. Most of it is textiles made from Alpaca wool with varying degrees of quality. You'll find pretty much the same stuff everywhere, so avoid the urge to buy the first thing you see. The best experience I had was taking a Cusco hotel organized day trip to see Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez in Chinchero. She gave us and excellent presentation on how goods are made from Alpaca wool. She has given seminars at major US universities on the subject and has been featured by National Geographic a couple of times. I highly recommend buying stuff there as you cut out all the middle in the marketing chain. IMO baby Alpaca wool is the best in the world and is much more environmentally friendly than cashmere. Yes you can bargain with them, but no I did not. $100 USD for a sweater made from the best wool in the world which took a month to make by hand is a helluva deal anywhere. They also have goods that are cheaper because they are made from lower quality wools, but are still excellent and can be had for about $20 USD for a nice sweater. At higher end shops you can also find very high quality goods made from baby alpaca wool at factories in Lima using more modern weaving methods. Expect to pay a premium in price and some of that stuff can be found online anyway from Lima retailers.

The toilet water spins the same direction.

If anyone is interested I can post pics later, but still waiting for my camera from my checked bag that didn't make the trip home with me.

14 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
Highlight: NoneDon't highlight anything 5 newestHighlight 5 most recent replies
Trip report for Peru, Machu Picchu (Original Post) Major Nikon Oct 2017 OP
fantastic...thanks for this.... dhill926 Oct 2017 #1
And your pictures are MFM008 Oct 2017 #2
Bags still haven't arrived Major Nikon Nov 2017 #7
My daughter visited there twice. murielm99 Nov 2017 #3
I was there exactly a year ago and I could have written your review myself. lamp_shade Nov 2017 #4
I didn't like cusco Chakaconcarne Nov 2017 #5
It's that way at many popular tourist destinations out of the country Major Nikon Nov 2017 #8
Absolutely interested hermetic Nov 2017 #6
Thanks for your report riverbendviewgal Nov 2017 #9
Gosh, I hope your camera shows up with your checked bag. mnhtnbb Nov 2017 #10
I was there in April and May. a la izquierda Nov 2017 #11
Thanks Major Nikon locks Nov 2017 #12
We were there in March of 2016... What a beautiful country! We flew into Lima, stayed a few days, secondwind Nov 2017 #13
Thanks for this, particularly the Machu Picchu details. robertpaulsen Nov 2017 #14

dhill926

(16,343 posts)
1. fantastic...thanks for this....
Tue Oct 31, 2017, 10:38 PM
Oct 2017

brought back memories of the trip I took there in 2003. Absolutely loved it but man....got TD really, really bad. And no flushing of the toilet paper. Made for quite an unpleasant couple of days.....

murielm99

(30,745 posts)
3. My daughter visited there twice.
Wed Nov 1, 2017, 01:14 AM
Nov 2017

The first time was with a tour group, then she went later, on her own. She has lived in South America and is fluent in Spanish, so that works for her.

She took altitude pills for awhile before she went on her trip.

We paid for her trip, because when she was living in Bolivia there was unrest, and she missed Machu Picchu the first time she was there. She had dreamed of visiting the place for years, so we were happy to help her with that.

I am glad you got to do this.

lamp_shade

(14,836 posts)
4. I was there exactly a year ago and I could have written your review myself.
Wed Nov 1, 2017, 05:31 AM
Nov 2017

9 days total... 4 days in Cuzco from where my daughter and I did the M.P and S.V tours and then Mira Flores for 5 days. AirBNB at both locations. Age, altitude, asthma and anxiety limited the amount of climbing I was able to do but I gave it my best shot. Machu Picchu was awesome but for some reason the Sacred Valley tour was even more fascinating. I would do it all over again in an instant.

Thank you for posting your Trip Report. I had wonderful memories while reading it.

Chakaconcarne

(2,453 posts)
5. I didn't like cusco
Wed Nov 1, 2017, 01:28 PM
Nov 2017

with the exception of some of the restaurants.....you will get pestered every 5 minutes to buy something. everywhere i went i felt like i was trying to get ripped off...very predatory in terms of selling methods unlike anywhere i had been during my trip. 2 cholitas tried to pick pocket me along one of the street markets outside the touristy areas. I almost kicked their ass but wised up in time. I was there too long... 1-2 days is probably good. food was awesome.

I actually had mp reservations, hotel all lined up but skipped it altogether because I was so sick of tourists and crowds and for the effort and expense to get to mp, I said forget it. I had already been in Bolivia and Peru for 2 months.

Major Nikon

(36,827 posts)
8. It's that way at many popular tourist destinations out of the country
Thu Nov 2, 2017, 12:01 AM
Nov 2017

Especially in the underdeveloped world. I just don't make eye contact and ignore them while walking away. Pickpockets are also common in tourist destinations so I don't carry valuables that are easily accessed. I've traveled in the underdeveloped world enough to just expect that kind of behavior so it doesn't really bother me.

hermetic

(8,310 posts)
6. Absolutely interested
Wed Nov 1, 2017, 09:55 PM
Nov 2017

in seeing your photos. I do hope everything is returned to you soon. I know that can be pretty upsetting, not knowing where your luggage is. Best of luck.

riverbendviewgal

(4,253 posts)
9. Thanks for your report
Thu Nov 2, 2017, 11:07 AM
Nov 2017

I forwarded it to my friend whose son and daughter in law are going this month. They really loved your report.

I have always wanted to go to Manchu Pichcu. Now I am not in great shape so will have to be content to see your photos. Mucho gracias.

mnhtnbb

(31,392 posts)
10. Gosh, I hope your camera shows up with your checked bag.
Thu Nov 2, 2017, 01:58 PM
Nov 2017

We went to Peru in 2009 with a small tour group (18) that included a friend from college and her husband.

Machu Picchu is amazing. Cusco was interesting. Ran into a guy in the Cathedral there wearing an NC State t-shirt (I live in
Chapel Hill) so we had a fun 'small world' conversation.

Did you see the ruins of Sacsayhuaman?

Both my husband and I are still wearing wool sweaters/vests we bought in Cusco. I use a lovely red alpaca throw when I nap
in the winter. Found it at an open air market in the Sacred Valley. Red was difficult to find. We have a runner--in shades of purple and rose--on our dining table most of the year that we bought at a place where they did a presentation on how the wool is dyed.

One of the photos that I took--at the highest point-- on the road to Lake Titicaca won a DU photo contest some time ago when the theme
was roadside attractions. Took it with my little Canon point and shoot that I always carry in my handbag when traveling.

I do so hope your camera shows up! Looking forward to your photos.

locks

(2,012 posts)
12. Thanks Major Nikon
Sat Nov 4, 2017, 09:21 PM
Nov 2017

The first real trip I took out of the country was when I was young in 1980 and I have wonderful memories of Cusco, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, and then on to Ecuador and the Galapagos. I live at 6,000 ft and often go above 10,000 so had no problem at Cusco or Machu Picchu but had altitude sickness at Lake Titicaca (12,500). Since then I have had many of my friends and family travel to Peru and they all loved it and the people.

secondwind

(16,903 posts)
13. We were there in March of 2016... What a beautiful country! We flew into Lima, stayed a few days,
Sun Nov 5, 2017, 09:12 AM
Nov 2017

visited the Cathedral in the square, shops along the Pacific Ocean, etc. Friendly, courteous people all the way.

We flew to Cusco, and felt the effects of the altitude after a short while.. The hotel kept coca leaf tea available in the lobby 24/7. I was grateful for it. Cusco is a beautiful city, the architecture is amazing, but there is poverty of course.. Children trying to sell "stuff' in the square, from dawn to dusk. We befriended one young girl named Juana.. She sucked down one water bottle in a jiffy.

Restaurants in Cusco are amazing, especially a vegetarian restaurant that we returned to over and over again.

We also took to the train to Aquas Clientes, and enjoyed the "on board show" of the dancing devil and a fashion show as well. Everything runs on schedule, no matter what, so get to the train station on time.

We flew back to Lima for one night, then left early the next day... the airport in Lima is modern, etc.

It was a memorable trip. I was traveling with my stepdaughter who had been traveling on her own for a month in other South American countries... We had a blast.

robertpaulsen

(8,632 posts)
14. Thanks for this, particularly the Machu Picchu details.
Wed Nov 8, 2017, 09:24 PM
Nov 2017

My father visited there in the summer of 2010. So much of what you wrote about the terrain reminded me of his account. I was pretty amazed he was able to do as much hiking as he did considering he was 67 and had colon cancer. He said it was invigorating and he was certain he would beat it. It's still hard to believe he passed away less than a year later.

I certainly hope you get your camera back soon. I would love to see those pictures.

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