No Time for a Breakfast Souffl? Try a Soufflazy
'I’ve always believed that pastry chefs are born, not made. They’re patient, methodical, tidy and organized. It’s why I stick to the savory side of the kitchen — I’m far too messy and impulsive to do all the measuring, timing and rule-following that pastry demands. The temperament of nearly every other cook I’ve met further proves my theory. I know pastry chefs who are overwhelmed by the idea of tasting, rather than measuring, their way to a balanced vinaigrette. And the savory chef who taught me how to cook can’t properly whip an egg white to save his life (though you didn’t hear that from me).
But there is one notable exception: my friend Amalia Mariño, who is both versatile and precise. I’ve watched her confidently grill 100 duck breasts, carefully moving each one as rendering fat threatened to drip into the coals and send up a flare. And I’ve seen her roll out flaky pastry dough, then adorn it with slices of red- and green-fleshed plums in striking patterns only an art-school graduate could conjure.
For Mariño, the choice to straddle both sides of the kitchen is deliberate. “It’s just the way I was raised,” she said. Her grandfather was obsessed with self-reliance and skillfulness. He taught Mariño to use a table saw and to catch, gut and scale a fish by the time she was 6. “He just wanted me to be capable in every way.” So when Mariño decided to pursue cooking, it was natural that she’d learn how to do it all in the kitchen too.
Recently Mariño mentioned that she’d made soufflé for breakfast. “It’s so light — a cloud of eggs, cheese and herbs. I make it all the time.” I’d never gone to the trouble to make soufflé in the morning, but somehow it didn’t seem weird that Mariño would. The only thing I couldn’t figure out was her timing — it takes at least an hour to prepare a soufflé base, and you can’t really do it the night before. So I asked if a breakfast soufflé was really worth losing 90 minutes of precious sleep.
“No!” Mariño corrected. “Not a soufflé. A soufflazy.”
Delighted equally by her portmanteau and the implication of a shortcut for a notoriously finicky dish, I pressed for more information. “Oh, it’s just this thing I made up,” she replied. “It’s kind of crazy, but it works.”'>>>
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/02/22/magazine/breakfast-souffle-goat-cheese.html?
Amalia’s Goat-Cheese Soufflazy
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1019199-amalias-goat-cheese-soufflazy
