Mezcal at the Crossroads

[Judi Lynn]

April 4, 2016
Mezcal at the Crossroads

by Kent Paterson

Standing tall with a relaxed poise, Itzel Coria did a steady business selling her family’s mezcal, Ojo de Vibora (Eye of the Snake), at a recent edition of Zihuatanejo’s Saturday Ecotinaguis Sanka.

“This is the only mezcal for which there are local producers,” Coria told Frontera NorteSur in between transactions with customers scooping up bottles of tequila’s agave cousin. “We can consider it the mezcal of Zihuatanejo.”

Coria is from a fifth generation of mezcaleros who distill the alcoholic beverage from a wild maguey plant, or agave, Agave cupereata, that flourishes in the Sierra Madres of Vallecitos above the small Pacific port and tourist destination of Zihuatanejo, Guerrero.

The young mezcalera stressed how the no-preservatives, naturally-produced drink provides a good-paying-and legal- income to mountain dwellers who live in isolated communities where the lack of employment opportunities tempt some to turn to the fast but dangerous cash of opium poppy cultivation.

More:
http://www.counterpunch.org/2016/04/04/mezcal-at-the-crossroads/

[Hoyt]

1. Interesting article. Although a bit pricey, some of the local mezcals are really quite good.

I think I have tried 3 or the 4 from one producer discussed in the article. They vary in production methods, vats used for fermentation, etc., and the tastes are distinct to each. Some use mules to power the grinders, other use electric crushers. The ovens vary. All are relatively low output, thus the relatively high price. You never know when the liquor store will have them in stock because they are such low output. Oh, and the bottles and labeling are quite interesting as well.

But there is something appealing about enjoying a mezcal produced using a donkey-drawn grinder by a weathered artisan who has perfected their trade, while playing my mandola late at night, as opposed to mezcal perfected in a large sterile chemistry lab type distillery. You also have to hand it to the marketers who have managed to maintain that feel, while bringing the product to America. Hope these local artisans prevail.

It's a little early to break out a bottle, but thanks for the article.

[Judi Lynn]

2. Interesting to hear there is that much difference. It would be worth a higher price, no doubt.

Passing on the qualities which made them special, precious, originally should have been part of the pattern for every product. It's great when there are some who still honor the product they expect people to buy.