I had my first equipment failure yesterday.

[flamin lib]

My 16 year old FL-36 flash refused to boot. That's okay 'cause I wanted to upgrade anyway. The new FL-700 is a vast improvement. It's weather proof like the rest of my gear, uses 4 AA batteries so recycle time is really fast and it has a modeling light so it's easier to compose in very low light. That should help if I take on 5x's challenge to shoot moths pollinating the white Bull Nettle blossoms at night .

I thought I'd take this opportunity to show off my macro setup. I shoot almost exclusively with flash. Sync speed set to 1/250 and aperture at f16-22 for depth of field. That allows the flash to over ride full sunlight and make the background disappear into darkness.

Set focus to manual at 1:1 and move in until the subject is in focus. I don't shoot sequential 'cause the flash won't keep up.

This is my preferred setup, a small DIY soft box. The seashell fragment is placed at the minimum focus distance and the soft box will be positioned right above the subject. If I move back I can tilt the flash head up to direct the light onto a subject up to 2 feet away.

[img]?1[/img]

And this is the result:

[img]?1[/img]

If you aren't up to DIY projects you can find commercial products or use a flat reflector like this:

[img]?1[/img]

And this is the result:

[img]?2[/img]

Both of the results pics are straight out of the camera with no post at all.

If you don't have a macro lens and don't feel like spending the cash to get a specialized piece of equipment you can use extension tubes with any lens you have. For about $50 you can find all metal tubes with electrical contacts that maintain full auto focus and aperture control. Alfredo has done some stunning work with these.

[img]?1[/img]

The key is to make your flash bigger as a light source and to position the reflector over the subject at regular working distance.

[mitch96]

1. Amazing stuff...

F16/22 gets you a lot of depth of field, yes? So why do you need that much DOF when the subject is so thin? Or is it you want that slow speed? Does it have to do with the lens?
Just curious...
m

[flamin lib]

3. Yes, those apertures give max depth of field.

As distance to subject is reduced so is depth of field at any given aperture. F8 at 1:1, about 7 inches from the front element with the Oly 60mm macro, is only about 1/16 inch. You can't get a housefly's face fully in focus. Also the longer the lens the less depth of field and the 'crop factor' for 4/3s is 2, so that 60mm lens is the same as a 120mm in full frame. Add in that my subject matter is typically constantly moving and I need all the 'fudge factor' I can get.

Finally, the combo of high sync shutter speed and small aperture drops the background into darkness making the subject really pop.

Now, if everything stayed absolutely still I could use focus stacking and shoot at f8 which is generally the sharpest aperture for most lenses. With focus stacking several pictures are made with the focus moved slightly and then combined so that the entire subject is in focus. It's also handy for sweeping scenic images with close in subject matter and grandeur in the background. That way the cactus you put a foot in front of the lens and the rest of Big Bend in the background can be sharp from cactus to horizon.

All that said, if we have to quibble over which aperture is sharper than another, the equipment is way better than we deserve--and it is.

[mitch96]

5. Do you use a remote shutter trigger or just wing in old school and push a button? nt

[flamin lib]

6. Depends on the situation. In the wild I'm shooting through the viewfinder and

a remote shutter release isn't practical or necessary. I don't use a tripos out there even with the 840mm f5.6 because the image stabilization is so good a tripod isn't necessary.

However when I'm in studio I like to mount the camera on a tripod and compose on the back LED panel. That way I can add reflectors and see the results. In that case I often use the Oly Image Share app on my smart phone. I can move around the subject and see the composition in my hand and select focus point and shutter release on the phone touch screen. The app is free to anyone who owns Oly cameras.

The app also lets you upload files directly to your computer or to the smart phone for sharing.

My apologies for the shameless plugs . . .

[alfredo]

2. Thanks for the good words and the dyi tips.

Sometimes I use a diffuser made from a ping pong ball cut in half. It fits with a bit of shims made of foam door weather sealer.

Mostly I use a ring flash set on light. I use rechargeable batteries.

I have been using the Laowa 17mm 1.8 for flowers and other closeup work.I love that lens. Big Bang for the Buck. The focus ring is deliciously dampened, so is the aperture.

[flamin lib]

4. What ever you're doing it works.

I can see where a ring light would be advantageous. When I'm working around plants like the prickly pear cactus that I've been shooting pollinators around my soft box is constantly running into stuff and spooking the subject.

[alfredo]

7. Sometimes.

I sadly 86's a beautiful shot of dried ivy. It had everything but focus

The ring light eats batteries because I don't use the flash, just constant light. It leaves a circle of light on raindrops and insect eyes. I really comes in handy on cloudy days.

[flamin lib]

9. On any given outing on any given day I'll make 500 exposures.

Of which I keep ten and that's five too many just because I'm a wuss when it comes to "do you want to permanently delete this file?".

That's the beauty of digital. With film I'd spend $150 every time I went out. On the other hand shooting film makes you think more. Why does there always have to be that other hand?

[alfredo]

8. It helps with focus

These old eyes light and clean glasses.