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Related: Culture Forums, Support ForumsNeed to buy an air-conditioner and I'm an idiot.
Does anyone have any advice?
My parents said they would buy me an AC for my birthday next week since I am dying here in my new apartment and don't think I will last the summer without AC. My studio is about 550 sq feet, but I will keep the door to my dressing room and BR closed which will make it about 500.
Looking for a good value window AC at a good price. Just enough to keep me cool at night. I have a fan, but that hasn't quite been doing the trick and it hasn't even been that humid yet here. I will probably buy from Amazon since I get free shipping.
My window is about 33 inches wide and I can make it as high as an AC can go. Would appreciate any suggestions. I am famous for making stupid purchases, so any advice would be most welcome. Thanks in advance!
tazkcmo
(7,300 posts)Or any home improvement store. A small unit will be quite affordable. No specific recommendations but I would check online reviews on a store's website you want to give your business to.
Edit: 5000 btu units are around 150 bucks and is plenty for your apt. Might even cool your bedroom with a little help from a fan to move the air.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I am checking reviews. I would like something with a timer that switches off right before I get up. Good to know that it is enough to cool my small space.
tazkcmo
(7,300 posts)Happy to help. Happy hunting!
at140
(6,110 posts)Those who are unhappy post reviews more often.
My advice is to look for sales.
You can get a lemon in any brand.
But most units will work just fine.
lapfog_1
(29,205 posts)and buy a wall timer separate from the unit...
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Programmable-Timer%EF%BC%8C7-Programs-Electrical/dp/B07HH39V97/ref=asc_df_B07HH39V97/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242027088707&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18244144523294276640&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032294&hvtargid=pla-574381528688&psc=1
110V unit at 4000 to 5000 BTUs should be sufficient.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I want it to go off earlier than I have to wake up in the morning. I have a hard time getting up, but if the AC unit shuts off early and I start getting hot, being uncomfortable will wake me up naturally. If I am cool and comfortable, I could sleep until noon!
rampartc
(5,412 posts)and will give years of service without being so valuable that it must be moved out when you do.
one consideration - get a unit that runs on 120v standard household volts unless your window already has a 220v plug.
tazkcmo
(7,300 posts)Forgot about that.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)Just need something basic. This is good advice.
Lochloosa
(16,066 posts)That will make all the difference.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I find the white noise kind of soothing. But good to know that 5000 BTU's will be adequate. Thanks!
LakeArenal
(28,820 posts)smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I was so spoiled the last 7 years since I moved back to Boston. I was renting a condo unit that had free AC and I didn't have to pay a cent for it. It was so nice. I am one of those people that will crack my window open until it gets down to 35 degrees. I really love sleeping in a cold room. I absolutely hate the heat. Especially at night.
LakeArenal
(28,820 posts)Yes and it keeps it REALLY COLD.
Like the other poster, 5000 should cool your whole space.
demmiblue
(36,865 posts)smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)But almost everyone has a window air conditioner. It's just brutal here without one. I thought I could get through the summer without one, but now I am thinking I am wrong. It's early July and I am miserable.
I actually hate summer unless I can be in a pool, body of water or AC most of the time. Otherwise, I can't tolerate the heat.
Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)Variable speed compressor models are considerably more efficient, but are generally more expensive to buy and you may not find one that's less than 14,000 BTU which is a bit large for your need.
You'll want to figure out if you have a 220v outlet available. If not that will limit you to 115v models.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)There were some lower BTU options available. I definitely want a model that saves on energy, so this is a great link. Thanks!
Snarkoleptic
(5,997 posts)If you have the option of placing the unit in various windows, it may be best to place it where it won't have gutters/rain dripping on it.
The steady beat of gutters dripping/rain falling on the outdoors part of the unit, can keep you up at night.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I have never had a window unit before so I am not familiar with this.
Snarkoleptic
(5,997 posts)Both nights it poured rain and the constant hammering of the raindrops on the flat sheet metal (of the outside part of the unit) was loud and enough to keep us awake.
Kaleva
(36,312 posts)I like portable units as there is no need to lift and put in place a heavy unit in the window itself. The unit sits on the floor and the hot air is exhausted out the window by a hose. The auto-evaporation system means there is no bucket to empty or having to have a drain hose attached to the unit.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)work as well. I am not sure, just going on what feedback I have received. I like the portability and ease of a mobile unity, but I am not sure if they are the best model for the value.
Kaleva
(36,312 posts)The days of me lifting up and putting in place a window unit bigger then 8,000 BTUs are gone.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I am just wondering how it affects one's electric bill.
captain queeg
(10,208 posts)Stay away from those portable ones if theres no strong reason for it. Got one for my sons room because the window configuration was wrong for a window unit. Theres a lot of reasons why the portable are a poor choice, but mostly they are very inefficient (though I dont think they use the word efficienty for AC though the concept is the same).
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I also heard that they were more expensive to run. I am looking for something that is a bit more economical. Thanks captain queeg!
ProudLib72
(17,984 posts)They were on sale for around $120 each. They were meant for a single room (around 150 sq ft) so they were really small. However, I have some important information to pass on to you about their installation.
First of all, you are going to need to make sure the unit is secure in the window. I built little wooden platforms. Depending on the size, this might not be a huge deal. I had to do it because I had sliding windows, so there was a track along the bottom and the unit would not sit flush. You will also need to make sure it is tilted at the correct angle so excess water drains out. Units come with these little accordion style attachments that are meant to take up extra space on either side of the unit (because you don't want six inches of open window letting the heat inside!) These attachments are usually crap, so I buy some of that closed cell backer rod (insulation rope) to take care of any gaps: https://www.amazon.com/Closed-Cell-Backer-Rod-Roll/dp/B001OBTXT8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=insulation+rope&qid=1562462425&s=gateway&sr=8-4 You will also need some Gorilla tape to make sure everything is completely airtight (or else you will get flies and wasps coming in.) The last thing is the fact that you will not be able to close your blinds. If you don't want to let light in, use some black trash bags and Gorilla tape to shut out the light.
One thing about the excess water part. My units relied partly on water as a sort of swap cooler for secondary cooling effect (does that even make sense the way I've written it?) Great idea out here in arid CO. Probably a horrible idea in humid Boston.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I think I am going to have to have my brother come down here to help me deal with this because I am useless with this kind of thing. He lives in Vermont, but he has offered to come down to help me set up things in my apartment. I wish I was more handy. I'm great with the little things, but when it comes to appliances, I'm kind of out of my league.
Thank you for your advice, I appreciate it! I will be sure to get the Gorilla tape because the last thing I want is insects in here. I hate bugs more than anything! Fortunately, we don't have a lot of them here in Boston.
I was up in Maine over the holiday weekend and I was shocked at how many insects there were compared to the city! I was so unused to it. We weren't even in the woods. It was the southern Maine coast, but once the sun went down the insects came out in force. I loved being up there, but I have to admit I was happy to get back to the insect-free city.
ProudLib72
(17,984 posts)Maybe it's because of all the nooks and crevices.
One time, way back in my college days, I owned a small condo. It was about 400 sq ft, but it had a lofted ceiling that made it feel much larger. Anyway, one summer I was away for a couple months. When I got back, it was in the 90s, and I just couldn't get my condo cool. I went to Sears and told the man how large my condo was. He told me I needed a 9,000 BTU unit. I ended up with a monster 15,000 BTU unit, just to make damned sure! When the condo was built, the construction people left a little space where a wall unit should go. I had to cut out everything (sheetrock on the inside, siding on the outside, insulation in between.) Then I had to heft this monster A/C unit up into the hole. That thing was at least 80 lbs! I finally got it all ready, turned it on, and was instantly overjoyed by how cold it made my place! Mind you, it took some extra work to really make it look like it fit in the oversized hole in the wall, but I was so glad I had it.
The moral to the story is, if you are questioning which size to buy, I would err on the larger size. I may be completely wrong in my assumption, but it seems to me like a slightly larger unit doesn't get taxed as much trying to cool a space. Plus, the components are larger and (hopefully) sturdier.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)Believe me, I would love to have the most powerful AC available, but I am paying $250.00 more in rent and no increase in salary so I have to be economical.
I might even have to have my parents help me out this summer with the electric bill. I plan to ask for a raise this week, but the way our company is structured I am at the high end of my level, so I don't expect it will be much.
Anyway, thank you for your advice. I wish I could get by without AC, but I am miserable without it. I absolutely hate the heat. As much as I hate to ask for help from my parents, I may have to this summer. I cannot sleep in the heat and at this point I am desperate for a good night's sleep.
ProudLib72
(17,984 posts)A bigger unit should be more efficient. Remember how I was telling you that the units I bought a couple years ago have a sort of secondary, swamp cooling system? That's one way to keep the cost down. When the room temperature reaches a certain point, my unit will simply switch over to the swamp cooler system to maintain that temperature for as long as it can. Some other posters have mentioned the energy star rating. That's always important to check. It's good that you are shopping around and learning about all this so you can make an informed decision. I honestly think that a little more outlay up front could turn into savings on your electrical bill over the long run if you get a good unit and set it up properly.
I hope you get a window unit soon! I really hate trying to sleep in a hot room (just impossible,) so I can empathize.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)Pardon my ignorance here, I really don't know much about these things at all. It just has to fit in a small window, so that is my only requirement (about 33 inches wide). Do you have a particular model in mind? I am open to suggestions.
Right now, I am sleeping with a fan and blocks of ice in pillowcases and it's not really working out that well so I am looking for something that I can order via Amazon Prime that will be an easy set up. Fortunately, we had a big storm tonight which has cooled things off a bit, so there has been some relief, but it won't last for long.
Thank you for your opinion!
Historic NY
(37,451 posts)or look for an energy saving mode so you can set a temp.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)Thank you!
captain queeg
(10,208 posts)Id get something 8000-10000 if you can afford it. Wouldnt be that much more and better too have more capacity than not enough. I think you can get up to about 18000 BTU that still run on 115 volts, but itll draw a lot of amps. If you have a newer place and wiring shouldnt be a problem. Like a lot of people have said there are many variables, but I. Think its better to have a little more than you think youll need. At least where I live very hot days arent that uncommon nowadays and I suspect that trend will continue. Youre only paying for the electricity you use; you could have a tiny one running all the time or a little bigger one cycling.
Major Nikon
(36,827 posts)One that's too large will short cycle which wastes energy. So it's important to get one that's sized correctly for the application.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I would only use it at night when I am sleeping, but I really can't afford to pay a lot more in electric. How many hundreds of dollars per month are we talking here?
captain queeg
(10,208 posts)DashOneBravo
(2,679 posts)So the whole window air conditioner stays the same. They just change out different parts. Example, they use a 3 position instead of a 8 position. Or change out the plastic vents and logo.
So you dont have to pick out a name brand one.
applegrove
(118,694 posts)on wheels) to the window. There is a piece of plastic about 7 inches high and can expand widthwise that goes into the bottom of the window. There is a big hole in it to fit the other end of the hose in it. It will fit easily into almost any window. It kept my attic apartment completely cool. It was two rooms and a bathroom. They sell for almost $400 in canada. Would be much cheaper in the US. I did help my brother buy one last july and they were almost sold out. I would think online would be fine for having lots of stock. Nevertheless i would buy it sooner rather than later. The hose itself was about 7 feet long. So the portable unit would have to sit inside on the ground, near the window with the hose going to the window. Don't know what a good brand is. I only used mine for a summer before i moved and gave it away. Good luck.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/noma7-000-btu-portable-air-conditioner-0436128p.0436128.html?gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjYHpBRC4ARIsAI-3GkGJalcBkTz9ZOC1PI3PU3ApNfTnWh46RCs_oV02Vm28FNCAKNK7AFYaAtSZEALw_wcB#store=174
Hoyt
(54,770 posts)Me.
(35,454 posts)THey'll tell you exactly what you need for optimum conditions. Ask for open window installation, which means that part of your window will still be operable if you want to open it
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I really missed having a PC Richards right across the street on the Upper West Side. They were great! I got all my appliances from them. I really miss them!
Midnight Writer
(21,768 posts)Also varies according to the insulation of the space and of course the atmosphere outside the space.
I would recommend 10,000 to 12,000 BTU if you want to cool the whole space. Or perhaps a couple of 5,000 or 6,000 units and you can zone them. If you go for higher BTU, check the plug requirements, since some models require higher voltage than others.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)should be fairly comfortable. My bedroom area is kind of sectioned off so I can close off some other space to make the main room cooler.
Thanks for your advice!
KY_EnviroGuy
(14,492 posts)because much of the comfort comes from dehumidifying the air, and the fact that you're in an apartment building.
This is especially true if you don't demand a low room temperature. We're comfortable here with 80-degrees in the house at 55% humidity. However, I've known some ladies that simply demand 70-degree air.
In addition, much larger units really should be operated on a dedicated breaker-panel circuit due to the high inrush current when the compressor starts.
Another advantage you may (or may not) have is the fact that adjacent apartments (above, below or to the sides) will help insulate and can help cool your place even if they don't have AC. Therefore, most standard BTU calculations that are for homes with attics and lots of outside wall areas do not apply.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I am one of those "ladies" who likes it at around 65-degrees inside. But I will settle for 70.
And yes, the hallway is cool and most other people in my building have AC, so that will help insulate and cool my unit.
Thanks for all this great information! I am getting an excellent education here from you!
KY_EnviroGuy
(14,492 posts)A big concern is the quality of the outlet you plug this thing into (applies to any large appliance).
As you plug it in, if the outlet does not grip the prongs tightly, replace the outlet.
After you run the unit with the compressor operating for a half-hour or so, feel the outlet plate. If it is uncomfortably warm or hot, replace the outlet.
I've done home electrical repairs and installation for many years and the best preventative measures I've found are:
a. open up any old outlets and check the terminal screws (it's shocking how many I find loose and that can cause fires),
b. check the wire clamp screws inside the breaker panel (again, many are often found loose), and
c. replace any outlets that do not grip cord plugs tightly.
Although best done by a pro electrician, any mindful electrical hobbyist can perform those tasks, being careful to shut off the circuits while doing the work.
Those measures will both save you in electric billing and help avoid electrical fires or possible damage to your AC unit.
Glad to be of help. This sort of thing helps to keep me sane........
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)I hope to get one of my brother's down here to help me with this so I am bookmarking this thread to save all of your very helpful tips and advice. This has all been very helpful and very much appreciated!
KY_EnviroGuy
(14,492 posts)to drop us a line in the Lounge when you have it up and running, and hopefully that you're happy!
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)Thanks again! If you ever need any cooking advice or just general life advice, you can always reach out to me as well! I'd be happy to return the favor!
KY_EnviroGuy
(14,492 posts)1. I have a moderate-size ranch-style home with two window units and circulating fans. Currently, one of my window units is out, so we're doing with one 8,000BTU Kenmore unit and I keep the circulators going all the time. I live in KY, where the heat and humidity is high in the summer.
So, creating a circular movement of the air in your space using floor fans will make a world of difference.
2. Make sure you have adequate amperage available in a nearby outlet for your unit. My 8,000BTU unit draws 7amps and does fine on a 15amp outlet, but that's because there's no other heavy loads on that circuit. For example, if your refrigerator or toaster-oven is on the circuit you want to use, you might frequently trip the circuit breaker. You also do not want to operate an AC unit on a long extension cord, as that can be very dangerous (and it may violate local codes).
I suggest asking an electrically-minded friend to analyze what's on your available outlets, and do a map of your breaker panel.
3. I checked Consumer Reports and they give the best ratings to LG (although expensive), GE, and Kenmore, whereas Frigidaire and Whirlpool had very mixed test results. They actually buy and test the units in their lab.
4. Condensation water drainage control is always an issue with window units. Because an air conditioner removes humidity from your living space, that water is condensed and disposed of either by a.) a drain hole at the rear of the outdoor part of the unit, or b.) by using the fan blade of the compressor motor shaft to throw the water out of the exterior case in droplet form. In either case, that water can be both and annoyance if it drips down onto a neighbor, or the droplets can collect on, and damage woodwork near the unit. I had to install sheet metal deflectors around mine to keep it from damaging the window frame.
5. If possible, get the dealer to plug in and run the unit to make sure the fan noise is not offensive to you, and to observe how the controls and air-directors work. Some units have fans that create buzzes and whines that drive me nuts.
6. Be sure to check the conditions of the warranty that's supplied for the unit and consider purchasing an extension if the cost is not excessive. Also, it is very important to know that there's a local service center near you for the brand you purchase. You probably don't want to drive 100-miles to make a warranty claim if the unit fails.
Hope these help and good luck!........
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)This is very helpful! Those are issues I hadn't even considered, so I am glad you brought them up! I have a balcony outside my window, so the condensation would probably drip down onto the balcony instead of the neighbor below me.
I will definitely take all these things into consideration when I make my purchase. Thanks again!
KY_EnviroGuy
(14,492 posts)Don't know what type window you have, but make sure your window is held in place with a security screw or two so that there's no way that if the window is prone to vibrate open or if someone accidentally bumped it, that the AC unit will not topple out of your window.
I also secure the expanding "wings" mine was supplied with using small wood screws so they can't be accidentally be slid open.
It's also worthwhile to think of those two things in terms of security for your home!
You may need some pieces of foam rubber to seal around any openings created by the installation. For example, mine is mounted at the bottom of a traditional wood frame double-hung sash window, where the lower sash is raised about 1-foot for the AC unit. However, that creates a large gap where outside air can come in at the top of that lower sash and I have to jam foam rubber in across that gap each year when the AC is installed after winter. That's easy to overlook!
Although I think most come with this as standard, the remote control that came with mine is very handy.
KY.........
captain queeg
(10,208 posts)Check your electric bill and see how much you are paying per kWh. So just as an example using a 10,000 BTU unit x its rated coefficient of performance x 3 x what you are paying per hour would give you a rough estimate of cost per hour to run then think about how long youd be running it per day.
Thats making some assumptions obviously but ought to give you an idea. Seems like you are more concerned about your monthly bill than your initial investment.
captain queeg
(10,208 posts)Itll give you some idea, even if you dont thoroughly understand it. Its basically the work required divided by what you get. I .e. kWh / BTU.
Itll always be more than 1 since its AC and requires mechanical energy which to convert electric energy to thermal energy and thus will never be 100% efficient. Another good reason that the US should switch to SI (metric units) because in the end energy is energy and you dont need different units that have to be converted. Anyways, its been awhile so maybe whoever is selling you a unit can describe things better
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)a payment plan to spread the overage out over a longer period of time or see if my parents will just help me out with the bill for the summer. I would only use it at night and have it on a timer so that it would turn off early in the morning a few hours before I have to get up.
captain queeg
(10,208 posts)I was just checking average electricity price by state. I was surprised since I havent paid attention for awhile. Its about 10 cents per kWh here where I live (used to be 7 last time Id looked) and we are on the cheaper side because so much of our electricity comes from federal hydro projects. Anyway, using the example I gave for a 10000 BTU unit, and just assuming a COP of 2 (I think thats conservative): 0.10 x 2 x 3 = 60 cents per hour. If you ran it 10 hours per day thats 6 bucks a day, $180 per month. Again, many assumptions involved and Id say thats the upper limit, assuming you were using the full 10000 BTU all the time and I think you could probably get a better COP.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)10 hours a day as well. Start it in the evening around 8pm and have it turn off at around 4am. Something like that.
Thanks for your help and advice! That definitely gives me some kind of idea as to what it will cost me to run and if it's not that hot, I will just use my fan. Also, I may go away for a few long weekends this summer so I wouldn't run the AC at all when I'm out of town.
Thanks again!
Niagara
(7,627 posts)I will say happy shopping and good luck!
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)lindysalsagal
(20,692 posts)from that circuit.
Have access to the circuit breaker the first day.
Only use heavy-duty extension cords, and only if you absolutely must: Use a three prong outlet to make sure it's grounded.
They're heavy and need solid support, and they drip on the outside. Get help putting it in: You need more than 2 hands.
Niagara
(7,627 posts)I sure hope so. I haven't seen any updates from you about it.
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)and he bought it for me for my birthday! It is being shipped and will be here by Tuesday. That was so sweet of him! I did not expect it at all.
We decided to go with a portable unit since it will be easier for me to deal with living in a place w/ out a lot of storage and much less hassle to set up. Thanks for asking and thanks to everyone for all their advice and help!
Niagara
(7,627 posts)Our message boards move quickly here. Sometimes I don't get a chance to see everyone's post and sometimes I loose them . I wanted to make sure that I didn't miss an update. I also don't want you sweltering in the heat.
Hooray for your brother! Give him a fist bump from me.
The portable unit makes sense. That way you can move it from living area to bedroom and less hassle is always a good thing!
smirkymonkey
(63,221 posts)He's a great brother! He's running in the World Famous Utica Boilermaker 15K this weekend in upstate New York w/ his wife and his kids run in the kid race too. I hope to see him within the next few weeks.
Thanks again!