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NRaleighLiberal

(60,022 posts)
Thu Jan 24, 2019, 11:10 PM Jan 2019

Travel advice from those who have been to the Utah National Parks...

My wife and I are aiming to target the Utah National Parks this fall - in our early 60s, this is the time - we did Yellowstone and the Tetons two years ago, and figured this should be next.

10 days - enough? (we are thinking longer than that is too much)

Fly into Las Vegas or Salt Lake City?

Time break down per area - Zion, Bryce, Arches....include Capital Reef? Canyonlands? We are looking to airbnb it - and find maybe two locations to base our trip from - one in the southwest part near Zion, one in the northern part near Arches.

Time? Thinking mid September...

advice???

22 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
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Travel advice from those who have been to the Utah National Parks... (Original Post) NRaleighLiberal Jan 2019 OP
Take a look at the Road Scholar offerings for this. JohnnyLib2 Jan 2019 #1
We did almost this exact trip... wcmagumba Jan 2019 #2
thanks so much - really helpful! NRaleighLiberal Jan 2019 #3
Long time ago GP6971 Jan 2019 #4
At Monument Valley... rent some horses... defacto7 Jan 2019 #6
Are you hikers? defacto7 Jan 2019 #5
we can hike to some degree.... NRaleighLiberal Jan 2019 #7
I'm 62 and have one bad knee and one not so great. defacto7 Jan 2019 #8
Ogden rocks; great museums akraven Jan 2019 #9
We did that 25 years ago DFW Jan 2019 #10
Thanks all...kicking for the day crew NRaleighLiberal Jan 2019 #11
I Did This RobinA Jan 2019 #12
Great...thx! This area vs Yellowstone in impact? NRaleighLiberal Jan 2019 #13
Yellowstone RobinA Jan 2019 #14
Thanks once more! We are going to get to work on it next week. As to Yellowstone and the Tetons - NRaleighLiberal Jan 2019 #15
First time last summer for this midwesterner - No. Rim of grand canyon is a must! Kashkakat v.2.0 Jan 2019 #16
well we are booked - Sept 16-27, giving us 10 days aside from travel time. NRaleighLiberal Jan 2019 #17
Zion is great but the crowds can make it a zoo. kairos12 Jan 2019 #18
yes - check my update just before your post above NRaleighLiberal Jan 2019 #19
If you like hiking and heights don't kairos12 Jan 2019 #20
I Have To Say RobinA Jan 2019 #21
That was kind of my experience as well. Get there early and get up the trails. kairos12 Jan 2019 #22

JohnnyLib2

(11,212 posts)
1. Take a look at the Road Scholar offerings for this.
Thu Jan 24, 2019, 11:32 PM
Jan 2019

Three of us in our 70s were very pleased with the pacing and itinerary. Plus, no driving!

Their itineraries would probably be useful for the amount of time in various areas, too.

wcmagumba

(2,892 posts)
2. We did almost this exact trip...
Thu Jan 24, 2019, 11:33 PM
Jan 2019

quite a few years back, so not much current advice. We did 10 days also, flew into Vegas spent a night there, not much on gambling or Vegas, threw in North Rim of the Grand Canyon spent a night and did the 1/2 way down and back mule ride (fun). Went to Hoover Dam...maybe did too much but it worked out, caught the Valley of Fire State Park on the way to St. George, then took the long jog up to Arches (very cool), managed a nice partial day raft float on the Green River near Arches, fun except for the French guys in the next raft wearing very French swim suits (if you can call them that, sort of pre Borat). Delicate arch was great. Ate at some diner in Moab with tons of movie star pics on the walls from all the western movies filmed around there...John Wayne and such. Went to the Canyon Lands and on to Bryce Canyon, our absolute favorite with the Hoo Doo rock formations, ate dinner in the lodge there and it was very nice. Stopped at Capital Reef and of course Zion, took the wading hike up through the narrow canyon (wear good sticky bottom shoes, the rocks were very very slick. Had a great time all in all but again that was nearly 25 years ago. So highly recommend this trip...we didn't spend a bunch of time at any one location but was definitely a worthwhile trip for us. Have fun....

NRaleighLiberal

(60,022 posts)
3. thanks so much - really helpful!
Thu Jan 24, 2019, 11:35 PM
Jan 2019

we have a stack of books from the library - and trip advisor has a really good link.

But nothing like first hand input from my DU friends!

GP6971

(31,221 posts)
4. Long time ago
Fri Jan 25, 2019, 12:03 AM
Jan 2019

we did all 3 over separate business trips and we based out of Vegas. I recommend to take as much time as you can as all 3 are breathtaking. As far as flying into SLC vs. LAS...Check Delta as SLC is now a major hub, but LAS is a destination city. Driving times between the 2...it looks to be about a wash.

We're headed to Monument Valley this year near the 4 corners. It's going to be about a 3 week driving trip stopping often along the way.

defacto7

(13,485 posts)
6. At Monument Valley... rent some horses...
Fri Jan 25, 2019, 12:15 AM
Jan 2019

That's the best way to see it... if you don't mind riding horses.

defacto7

(13,485 posts)
5. Are you hikers?
Fri Jan 25, 2019, 12:09 AM
Jan 2019

We live in Utah and my wife and I head down to Moab and the vacinity a couple times a year with the kids. Airbnb works nice for us. One suggestion I would make would be to try to get as off season as possible due to the crowd. September is better than July but October is better yet. We go down between Christmas and New Years to catch the winter view. If you go during September be sure to carry a lot of water, it's exceptionally dry.

If you hike, then the Devils Garden in Arches is incredible if you do the whole primitive loop. Also in Arches the Fiary Furnace is to die for, but you have to get a permit to go in. They restrict the number of people per day and you're required to take a short course from the rangers so you can get out again; it's mostly unmarked but getting a bit lost is half the fun.. It's a maze of towering fins with hidden arches and a bit dangerous.
Brice Canyon is incredible, you just do it and you'll never forget it.
I could go on but those are things that come to mind.

NRaleighLiberal

(60,022 posts)
7. we can hike to some degree....
Fri Jan 25, 2019, 12:17 AM
Jan 2019

I have two bad knees (torn ACL), my wife has a surgically repaired knee and issues with plantar fascitis. We are going to use the summer to get into better shape (cut some weight, build up stamina) - from the guide books, we may be able to do some moderate, perhaps not the really tough, hikes.

Moab looked like a nice place to visit.

Thanks - very helpful - we can't wait! I think we are targeting mid Sept, but we could flex it out to Oct instead...great thing to consider!

defacto7

(13,485 posts)
8. I'm 62 and have one bad knee and one not so great.
Fri Jan 25, 2019, 01:09 AM
Jan 2019

I just wear my knee supports and I do ok. There are many less strenuous hikes in the parks but you may be surprised. Altitude is sometimes an issue if you're from the lowlands. Arches is all in the 5000's but Brice is much higher in the 7000's. Main thing is water!

As far as time of year, we never go in June, July or August... ever. It's just too crowded and the heat intense. Best times... Oct through December and April to early May.

Hope you have a great trip.

DFW

(54,445 posts)
10. We did that 25 years ago
Fri Jan 25, 2019, 03:52 AM
Jan 2019

I doubt the scenery has changed much. We flew into Las Vegas, saw nothing of the place. In at night, out early the next morning. Did the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Bryce, Zion, and did a side trip to the Coral Sand Dunes (amazing!). Didn't have time for Arches or the others.

Highly recommended!! Second the comments of the others on the timing. We did it in July, and sweated enough to raise the water levels of a river or two.

RobinA

(9,894 posts)
12. I Did This
Fri Jan 25, 2019, 02:45 PM
Jan 2019

about 5 years ago. We are on the east coast and flew into Las Vegas. If you are not going to the Grand Canyon, you could consider Salt Lake, although Las Vegas is closest to any of your mentioned stops (Zion). One consideration might be cost, as when I compared the two plus the rental car from the airport, Vegas was much cheaper.

Ten days is OK to scratch the surface. We took 14, but we saw Grand Canyon, Hoover Dam and Monument Valley in addition to what you mention. Canyonlands was on the itinerary, but we pretty much had to scratch it because of time. I didn't fully see Zion, again because of time. We spent a day each at GC, Monument Valley, Zion, Bryce, Arches and Capitol Reef. More time could easily have been spent at each one.

One part of your plan I would rethink is the two locations. When I say we spent one day at each park, that does NOT include drive time. We stayed just outside each park except for GC and Monument, both of which we stayed in. Some of the highways out there are just as spectacular as the parks and deserve their own time. Even if you fly by on the highway, two bases is going to put you in the car an awful lot of your time. We stayed in hotels, all of which were fine. We overnighted in the Grand Canyon, which has to be booked way, WAY far in advance. Also in Monument Valley at The View.

We went in the spring and it was ideal. May. Can't speak for September. We did Yellowstone and the Tetons in September and it was good. Anytime when kids are not off from school is good, although you're looking at less daylight in September. Weather isn't much of a factor in the desert except for heat. It was plenty hot in May, but no humidity made the temperature a non-factor. I wouldn't go any later in the summer, though.

NRaleighLiberal

(60,022 posts)
13. Great...thx! This area vs Yellowstone in impact?
Fri Jan 25, 2019, 02:48 PM
Jan 2019

We were blown away by Yellowstone....I am sure this will be different, but equally impactful?

RobinA

(9,894 posts)
14. Yellowstone
Sat Jan 26, 2019, 12:20 AM
Jan 2019

You can’t really compare Yellowstone with Utah, they are completely different. Both must be seen. Both equally impactful, although YMMV. My own favorite of the Utah sites is Capitol Reef. All are beyond great. Everybody will have a different fave. I saw the Tetons for the first time when I was about 12 and that was my favorite then. Went back 15 years ago and wondered what they had done with the place.

That said, I am a huge Yellowstone fan. I love the geothermal features. I want to go there in winter. Any other questions, just ask. One thing - if you are going in the fall you should be booking, like, yesterday. You should still have time, but I would do it soonest. When I planned our trip I thought I’d just book the highlights and then wing it. Then I realized hotels were filling up and ended up booking the whole trip before we went. Moab, especially, if you plan to stay there for Arches & Canyonlands.

NRaleighLiberal

(60,022 posts)
15. Thanks once more! We are going to get to work on it next week. As to Yellowstone and the Tetons -
Sat Jan 26, 2019, 12:54 AM
Jan 2019

for Yellowstone we did an airbnb in Cooke City, which we loved - and meant we drove through the Lamar each day, in and out - that was really our favorite part, though of course the geothermal stuff was incredible and other wordly!

After Yellowstone, the Tetons certainly were great to view - but all things considered, Yellowstone beat it hands down (we stayed in Victor Idaho in another nice airbnb for the Tetons part).

Thanks for all your help - seems like a feast for those loving nature in Utah - we may end up calling this part 1 and return again in a few years.

Kashkakat v.2.0

(1,752 posts)
16. First time last summer for this midwesterner - No. Rim of grand canyon is a must!
Sat Jan 26, 2019, 12:13 PM
Jan 2019

Unless you've already been. The campground right at the rim is the best Ive ever been both in terms of scenery and pleasant people. I would start ea. day with a mile walk along the rim to the lodge for coffee . The warmth of the sun, the caramel smell of the ponderosa pine- sigh! Nice to remember that on a 20 below day here in WI.

From there I went to Grand Staircase Escalante (stayed in town of Escalante) by way of Bryce Canyon & Hwy 12 (designated scenic route - wow) and did a few hikes around there, & then to Cedar Breaks Natl Monument which is a lot like Bryce except higher up and hence the most incredible dark night sky (they have astronomy programs at night w/ telescope). Was going to go to Zion but heard it was and mostly always is, way packed with people & bumper to bumper cars and that just isn't my thing. The National Monuments are really just as good I think and shouldn't be overlooked.

I guess my suggestion would be to look at map and plan on either a south trip (fly into Vegas) or a north trip (fly into Salt Lake). which means youd have to do it in 2 trips but Im sure youll want to go back - so much there. Im planning my return trip to include Canyonlands, Arches, Cap Reef, part of Western CO. One thing to be aware of, is that the distances in Utah aren't how they are here - as the crow flies you might think its close but the reality is that due to the meandering of the roads, it can be many more miles than youd think, and due to terrain you have to slow down in places.

NRaleighLiberal

(60,022 posts)
17. well we are booked - Sept 16-27, giving us 10 days aside from travel time.
Mon Jan 28, 2019, 11:19 AM
Jan 2019

Fly to LV, Zion Bryce area 5 days, Fruita area 2 days, Moab area 3 days. Got four airbnbs. Now we just have to wait until the trip arrives!

Thanks so all - your advice will be helpful as we continue to ponder the trip to refine our activities (a bit - we are more ad hoc meanderers than disciplined planners!)

kairos12

(12,875 posts)
20. If you like hiking and heights don't
Mon Jan 28, 2019, 12:05 PM
Jan 2019

bother you, Angels Landing in Zion is a must. Check out the videos on YouTube.
👍

RobinA

(9,894 posts)
21. I Have To Say
Mon Jan 28, 2019, 02:02 PM
Jan 2019

I thought Zion handled the crowd pretty well. Granted, we were there in September. There is a shuttle bus that takes you around. I'm a car person and I figured this would be the worst thing ever, but it wasn't. Once on the trails and stuff it really wasn't crowded. You do have to get to the Visitor Center early or you won't be able to park there. The one food place was a little crowded, but doable. We did stay on the east side instead of the much more crowded west side, which may have been the difference. We left going through the park because we were headed back to LV and the west side was very lined up with cars trying to get into the park in the morning.

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