American Apparel: Against ‘Trashy Black Girls’ & Straightened African American Hair in Hiring

[Liberal_in_LA]

American Apparel: Against ‘Trashy Black Girls’ & Straightened African American Hair in Hiring

Financially struggling clothing company American Apparel is coming under fire for its discriminatory hiring practices. The ubiquitous store, which has spread like dandelions in recent months by hawking hipster basics, is being accused by many of looks discrimination, and now racism.

Internal documents and former employee testimonials acquired by Gawker.com show that American Apparel has an intensely biased attitude against African American women when being considered for employment. According to Gawker, when considering black women coming to open call interviews, a former employee remembers having been told regarding African American women:

“none of the trashy kind that come in, we don’t want that. we’re not trying to sell our clothes to them. try to find some of these classy black girls, with nice hair, you know?”

In addition, there is an unhealthy and strange attitude of control in evidence regarding how American Apparel expects black women to style their hair while working for them. The former American Apparel employee further reminisces:


“i will remember that forever, especially the ‘nice hair’ part. he was instructing another manager and i on who to look for during an upcoming open call, and i sat there dumbfounded, listening to him speak while the other manager made ‘uh huh, got it’ sounds on her end of the phone. the other manager on the call with me later became a district manager, and at one point instructed me to tell two of my employees (both of whom happened to be black females) to stop straightening their hair. i refused to do this…“

http://www.favstocks.com/american-apparel-against-trashy-black-girls-straightened-african-american-hair-in-hiring/1117393/

[mitchum]

1. I knew Dov Charney 15 years ago, and he was a wonderful progressive guy

I don't know what happened

[entanglement]

4. He's a racist, a creep and a sex offender. Some "progressive".

[mitchum]

5. But he wasn't then...

I spent a lot of time with him.
Honestly, this is a different Dov than the one I knew.

[nomorenomore08]

6. He got rich. *Very* rich, apparently.

I don't know if that's the full explanation, necessarily, but many a previously decent human being has been corrupted by an influx of cash.

[CBR]

2. I went in that store for the first time a few weeks ago.

It was lame and overpriced. Better clothes at Target.

[HockeyMom]

3. I remeber when white girls were perming their hair

to get 'fro's. Have we "advanced" back to the 1950s now in the 21st Century?

[vaberella]

7. I'm not feeling this. But I'm against Straightened hair as a Black woman.

Sadly, many Black women don't realize the fact that you straighten your hair is because you fear discrimination of your natural hair. I guess some may say discrimination against straight hair is discrimination----but we were forced to do it----and now the force has become part and parcel when it even threatens our lives.

[Diamonique]

8. I too am against Black women straigntening their hair.

As a Black woman I understand and agree with you about the historic reasons for it.

But I'm even more against an employer dictating how Black women (or anyone for that matter) should wear their hair, other than "well-groomed".

[CTyankee]

10. Michelle Obama appears to have straightened her hair, but I don't see a problem.

Do you? IMO, it is her hair and her choice to do with it what she will. Ditto her kids. I've seen them with straightened and natural hair.

If I were a black woman I would wear a 'fro. I think it is beautiful and natural. Luxuriant, actually.I hate my middle of the road "wavy" hair...I call it "Jerry Lee Lewis hair" since I'm Southern by birth...

[vaberella]

13. You're not Black then and I guess that's the problem.

Until you are, then you don't understand the social ramifications and the historical aspect of our hair. Additionally----the article is talking about chemically relaxing. Which is the problem and yeah---I adore Michelle O, but hate her relaxed hair. As for the kids...they get their hair perm pressed which is not really what is being discussed in the article.

[CTyankee]

14. It's true I am white (and Southern by birth, hence my Jerry Lee Lewis hair).

I have read a bit about the hair issues in Black American culture, but can't claim any deep understanding of the historical/social aspects. So I don't fully see the argument in those real aspects, which you do. I thank you for your insights here. However, tho my view is limited, I have always loved the 'fro that Eleanor Holmes Norton has had (and even now has as she grays) and Marian Wright Edelmen has had. To me, it was a "classic" look back in the day (and even now, to me).

You are right. This is a complex issue... :hi:

[vaberella]

18. I'll give you a bit of insight...because I mean it's unfair that I don't.

I also apologize for my rather terse comments. I'm sorry. I accidentally introduced one of my best friends to it, he's White boy from the South as well---From Georgia to South Carolina. And he was horrified. He told me, this goes to show how little he knows about Black people in general. Because Black woman's hair transcends an issue of just Black women but also includes Black men and their issues. Many Black men are horrified or disgusted by Black women with natural hair. I know my cousin happens to be one of them. The thought of his wife even thinking of going natural pisses him off.

I had natural hair for years. Natural hair for a Black woman also includes women who do a press (with flat iron or hot combing <---which is disturbing) or blow dry their hair <---However this (including the portion I just mentioned) is slowly becoming even more strict to those women who do not process their hair in damaging ways. It is seen that flat ironing, hot combing, and blow drying is extremely damaging because of the heat usage. Damaging is anything that can cause the hair not to revert to it's natural state. And all of those can do that if enough heat is used. I had only put a relaxer in my hair twice in my life before I found a sight called www.nappturality.com. Keep in mind...my twice is nothing compared to women. There are women who go regularly once a month since the age of 7 or younger to put in a relaxer. Can you imagine that? Once a month since very young until middle age or beyond...There are those who wait once every two or three months. At first I found www.naturallycurly.com. However they did not accommodate me because most of those women were either white women with naturally curly hair or Black women who put in texturizers. A texturizer, if you don't know, it's like a relaxer. A relaxer is a chemical product to straighten your hair---think of the opposite use of a perm for white women to make the hair curly. It's a chemical that is extremely harsh and dangerous to put in your hair---people have gone blind from just applying to the hair alone.

In any event it's used by Black women and many of these women apply it to their children's hair before they created the "kiddy perm" <---this is the same product and it's not a less harsh product, it is just as deadly, however many moms will say otherwise. Anyway, the texturizer you can say is the middle child between the regular relaxer and child perm. The texturizer "loosens the curl" chemically so the hair is still curly but it has this more wavy look at times, at times it's just a regular perm (mixed with a lot of conditioner (although here are new texturizer chemical products out now)) that is left on for 5 minutes rather than the 45 or so, for "virgin natural" hair. However your natural hair should have a curl factor in it for that to happen. To go into that is a bit complex however my sister has a "curl-factor" in hair hair which is like her hair makes an "S" curl while mine is "nappy" black hair which is more of a "z" <---no real curl there.

In any event, when I found nappturality they didn't really improve my styling or teach me knew ways to manage my hair. I had learned that surviving my teenage years with natural hair before I found it. But it gave me the understanding which I lacked and which you lack. So I was a bit harsh in my words of the fact that you're "not Black." I think I was a bit angered by your flippancy. And that was unfair of me because it shouldn't be expected for you to be otherwise, since I was unfamiliar until I went to the site and met Black women struggled to embrace their natural hair. Women would have cry sessions. Women lost their family, friends, and boyfriends/husbands because of their natural hair. It shocked me.

To me it was just about style as well. If they want to wear their hair that way...then they could. I was informed that your hair is a reflection of you and the usage of these painful ways to straighten the hair has nothing to do with the Black woman doing it for comfort or for themselves---it's to appease something they are lacking for the other. You see...they are afraid of being grouped as "the other" and this is the many ways in which Black women have found to try to "assimilate". Black women will say---"It's easier to manage my hair this way." <---However since the age of 12 most of them didn't style their hair while it was in it's a natural state. Some people go as far as age 7 or younger. So then, when did it become something "easier to manage" if they never tried other wise? You'll find Black women who say, "It's not neat to wear an afro or dred locs or any our hair in it's natural state" <---Why? Because society tells us that having our hair straightened is more fitting the idea of not only beauty, but neatness or professionalism.

You say you like Afros. I'll have you know that in much of white America, definitely Black America and other parts of America and Europe the usage of an afro is seen as someone who is militant and in some cases unprofessional. Someone who is opinionated about themselves and I know when I was wearing my fro (I have locs now) back in the mid-90s---90% of Black women in America were not. I was a teen then and most Black people gave me looks. Hispanics did this too and whites. Not in compliment. I was told by all races that I should think about putting in a relaxer, or, if not that, braids because I would look "so pretty" and "so clean". This was because I was not pretty with my natural God given hair and I was not clean or neat.


Of course then I never really took stock of this. Mainly because in my family women have natural hair of different textures. So I never realized the social pressure I was under since my mother and family kept me grounded. This of course started to change when I heard stories from other women were basically pushed out of their natural hair and forced in ways to take up the relaxer again. One women said when she went natural her mother said..."You look like one of those Africans." <---Because you really don't want to LOOK Black.

Relaxers themselves are owned by White hair companies or even dominated by them (Asians are definitely dominating as well--but they mainly fit the weaves and wigs field. Although the Japanese have created the stupid and expensive Japanese relaxer). Back in the day the Relaxer for the hair is like the bleaching cream for the skin. You'll see many Black women walking around with almost white faces while their skin is another color---black. This was used to show us that being our natural selves is wrong, it's a sin, it's militant, and it will keep us behind. If we want that job---we need to get a relaxer to straighten our hair. If we want to fit in a bleaching creme too get lighter is the best thing. We need to get as close to the European ideal of beauty as we can.

And this commercial push is what led into something that became a way of life. However, other people of other races along with many Blacks don't realize this. Let me tell you again...if Michele O EVER came out with an Afro in the WH it would be a bloody scandal. Remember the New Yorker magazine cover almost 2 years ago---in a way to "demean" or be satirical to Obama critics and what they have said against the Obamas--- Michele Obama was had an Afro to make her seem like a militant in the white house. One of those "angry black women." This is again going to be the meme.

So when I say I dislike straightened hair...I dislike it for an aesthetic reason, a health reason, and definitely because it's a reminder of a Black woman's social slavery to fit in and White society. Chris Rock did a film called "Good Hair" it was decent but didn't go far enough. However, it was definitely horrifying enough. You'll see little girls saying that straight hair is prettier, softer and nicer. Well Barbie has straight hair. My own little cousin is led to believe that shit as well.

Health wise, the chemical is a bitch. A white scientist in the film "Good Hair" was supposed to test it and he was like this is like putting ammonia on your body---he said after years of use you'll go blind and other things. And then when he heard that it's put on young black girls he was even more horrified ----his expression was priceless. And we, as Black women, used this regularly to fit in. Within that...they'll talk about wearing weaves and they'll (they being Black women) will say they do it to make "white people" feel relaxed.

So it's our response to make white's "happy" but also now it's even more to the point that we don't feel comfortable or without it because we don't want others to see us as----"militant, black, and so on" I guess we're afraid that white will feel uncomfortable with us which makes us uncomfortable since it could cross racial lines as to why they are uncomfortable. For others of us---well straight hair is always been the dream because Barbie had it.

If you want more and maybe want to talk about it more---don't hesitate to contact privately...and we can chat on it. My friend since I had "indoctrinated" has since been extremely racially sensitive since he never realized the impact of these things, he saw as the norm, being institutionalized racism. Until Michele Obama goes natural---just understand that the White House still has institutionalized racism.

I hope that helps. Again my apologies for my earlier rude comments.

[Liberal_in_LA]

19. nice post. I visit the natural hair websites for tips on natural hair care

[vaberella]

21. Oh thanks...me too.

Sometimes you need a bit of help. You know there's so much more to say. But... I had to condense that.

[nc4bo]

23. :)

:hi:

[vaberella]

29. I love Lawanda Page....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpBjqQ1XEEE <----I'm always like...Goddamn!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_Luyaf7nC8 <---It's too much. Barry Goldwater was there!!

[Jennicut]

22. I wish my hair would go straight, but I am left with this thick, curly

huge head of hair. But I never had to feel like I had to fit in, as a white teen and then as a woman. I can totally understand what you are talking about.

Did you see the studies done on black girls with white and black dolls? They say the white dolls are beautiful and the black ones are ugly? So, so sad. My 5 year old daughter has made a good friend in kindergarten this year, and she is a black girl. No one else would be friends with her, as we are in a more blue collar white town and she looks "different". The prejudices are still there even as young as 5 and 6, no doubt influenced by their parents. My daughter notices her friend's hair and skin is different but we talked about it and she does not see it as ugly...just different then her straight brown hair. I am trying to teach her the best way I know how but you really taught me a lot with that post.

[vaberella]

25. Glad to shed some light.

I think this is something a lot of Black women don't talk to their white friends about but they do tend to talk amongst themselves. I know at times I've refrained from bringing it up because I didn't want to bring up race relations. I should be clear...I rarely talk about race with my White friends funnily enough but with my minority friends (including the first generation Russians) it's fine and we talk about it all the time. Probably because we have experienced it in some fashion. I have come to realize I should give it a bit more focus because it might help in crossing that color line.

Additionally you'll notice in my post there's a slight prejudice towards those with relaxed hair...and that mainly stems from anger and frustration with those who do it. Since they hold rather "racist" views on natural hair, or they are people who will put in their child's hair which will perpetuate the same problematic ideology. However overall this is one of the major problems affecting the Black female community---our hair is a major problem.

I'm glad that your daughter made friends. Maybe when she's older you can educate her on some of these issues. I love it when there are people on the other side who understand and realize some of our struggles---even though in other nationalities it's almost unheard of, for us it's one of the major things affecting us today.

[Jennicut]

30. I am glad you posted how you really feel about it.

I had no idea, some of the negative stereotypes. But then, when I thought about it, I realized that there is that prejudice there.

[CTyankee]

24. Oh, vaberalla, your post is so enlightening! Thank you for it and for taking the time

and effort to give me this information. I realize now how big a deal the hair issue is. It is horrifying that you would have to risk your LIFE to get straight hair, downright barbaric.

I'm an "old leftie." Hell, I liked Angela Davis and I am guessing that it was the image of her in a fro that politicized the issue about militancy and the fro. In my innocence and ignorance, I admired the way she looked because I didn't know any better at that time about the social/historical politics of black women's hair.

Now I am old. I turned 70 this year and I am still learning. I can thank people like you for helping me learn. I sure as hell wouldn't get this information from any of my white friends and acquaintances! It's true: that cover of the New Yorker had Michelle in a fro! It makes me mad that I didn't immediately spot this for what it was. At the time, I thought it was just satire. Now I see what it really did, esp. to people like you who just want to live with the hair that you've got w/o risking your health for some incredibly horrendous aesthetic/political/social standard.

Being old, I want "wash and wear hair." I keep it short because I don't want to take the time and effort to do anything to it, except dry it occasionally. To me, an Afro would be the cleanest and neatest thing I could do if my hair had that z curl you mention. I don't see anything messy or unclean about that. In fact, I think it's the opposite of straightened hair.

I see now that Michelle had some very narrow choices in how she styled her hair. I thought she had more choices but your information has helped me understand the politcal reality underneath, one I was not fully aware of.

Thanks, Vaberella. I might take you up on your offer. Please feel free to pm me, too, if you have something to add.

Good luck, my friend.

:loveya:

[vaberella]

27. Oh thanks CTYankee. Here are some videos I found too on the topic--to anyone else who's interested.

Again I can't apologize enough. Normally my frustration and anger over the issue blinds me to the entire problem. Again to go back to the OP it doesn't make what American Apparel has done to be right. Because it is a form of discrimination. However, on a personal level these girls who straighten their hair are actually doing it to please the CEO, managers and so on of American Apparel to even get a job.

You'll hear words like "creamy crack" that's a reference to the relaxer. And there are black women who go once a week to get it in...because they don't to even see a peak of their natural hair. However, most commonly it's every 3-4 weeks they get a touch up...and you'll see between 1-3 months. The 3 month ones are extremely rare. When my sister used it..she was a 1 every 6 months or a year---but again---she has the s curl so when her hair gets straightened it's closer to White people hair...she gets comments on it regularly. Z hair straightened looks different from S curl straightened.

Let me search for some videos.

1. This is the trailer for Good Hair which gives some ideas: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1m-4qxz08So

2. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wF_BNiH9bjc <---Funny interview.

3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=377ul_KU1TA <----This is true...I live in Harlem and I have been to the braiding shops on 125th Street and broadway.

4. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5i5tsIFhDM <---This is so true...oh my God. I had a cousin who slept face down...don't ask. And issues between Black men and Black women.


If you go to this link...you'll see a response to Chris Rock's good hair---which is fabulous.

http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=389&topic_id=8545685&mesg_id=8550145
5.

[CTyankee]

28. oh god, do I dare watch those videos? I'm a bit scared now...

You've done a good thing, Vaberella. You've thrown light and not heat on a subject and it's paid off in terms of someone now better educated because of you!

So there, kiddo!

[Liberal_in_LA]

15. Did you see the documentary 'good hair'? in Los Angeles it goes beyond straightening,

gluing the indian hair on is all the rage.

[vaberella]

16. I saw that documentary...it was lacking.

However, they made some decent points.

[Liberal_in_LA]

17. too much time spent on that ridiculous annual hair contest.

[vaberella]

20. Ain't that the truth. There was a secondary film or response film made to that.

Links below: Dr. Cornwell was interviewed. Wow her sisterlocs are amazing. I not only can't maintain that but also it's expensive. :D

1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2MMpiloR3M
2. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxx7PIGyjP8
3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqeYRAcbqgg

I hope there's a second film on Good Hair---because he started something...unfortunately I don't think it will continue.

[LeftyMom]

9. American Apparel is also against unions. And for sexual harassment.

Dov Charney is also on record saying that women with short hair are "unnatural" so dictating the personal grooming decisions of employees isn't a new idea either. The standard for women employees seems to be that they must look like somebody he wants to either bang, include in mock-70's pseudoporn advertisements, or both.

Just because they make their shitty overpriced shirts in the US it doesn't mean they're an ethical company.

[Number23]

11. Never shopped there before and damn sure won't now

People need to stop worrying about how black people look. Between the fascination with our hair and our genitalia, it's just too much.

You be you and let us be us.

[FreeState]

12. Thanks for posting this - one more reason not to shop at fashion based crap stores

They get away with it because it's not against the law - but it should be. Many stores do this too.. Look at Abercrombie & Fitch or any other store that sells fly by night fashion and good luck finding anyone who doesn't look and act what a middle age white guy would classify as "mainstream."

[MrScorpio]

26. Aren't all the American Apparel girls trashy?

Hell, they even use porn chicks for models, right?

Sort of like par for the course.

And really, it's not like I'm saying that trashy is a bad thing.

[Dappleganger]

31. We never shopped there because American Apparel's jeans are made for skinny people with no butts.

And that just doesn't fit our family's profile, if you get my drift. ;)