I usually post something each year to commemorate the saturation bombing of the town of Gernika -- Guernica in the Spanish orthography -- by the Nazi Luftwaffe's Condor Legion on April 26th, 1937. The bombing killed about one-third of the population of Guernica, as well as an undetermined number of people fleeing the Civil War and visiting from other towns who customarily shopped at the town's open-air markets on Mondays.
Today, Guernica is a popular tourist spot, not for partiers (Pamplona usually gets that "honor"), but for those with an interest in history. Guernica is not only the site of the first big, internationally-reported atrocity committed by the Nazis (and at the behest of Francisco Franco), but it is also the cultural capital of the Basque people. After Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA, and Athens, Greece, it is the place strongly associated with the development of democracy.
This op-ed piece, by polymath and fellow vascophile
Mark Kurlansky (author of
Salt; 1968: The Year That Changed The World; and
The Basque History of the World), is a brief re-telling of that atrocity with a warning for our generation, whose weapons of mass destruction far (and often) outperform those of Hitler, Mussolini, and Franco. Today, Pablo Picasso's immortal
Guernica still evokes pity and pangs of conscience.
The celebrated oak tree in Guernica town square, where European democracy was re-born (the
Forua, which would later inspire John Adams, assembled there), survived the attack, and is still standing. Also still standing: the world's complacency to atrocity. Mass terror, especially when sanctified by the state, has become routine and unremarkable. Only a few weeks ago, we marked
Yom ha-Shoah, Holocaust Commemoration Day; yesterday, it was an observance informally known as "Guernica Day". Every such atrocity has its own somber holiday, in the hopes that perhaps the lesson of past inhumanities will be learned.
SEVENTY YEARS AGO, on April 26, 1937, at 4:40 in the afternoon when the stone-walled, medieval Basque town of Guernica was packed with peasants, shoppers and refugees for its Monday afternoon market along the riverfront, a church bell rang out. The townspeople had heard the warning before. It meant that enemy planes were approaching.
Since ancient times, Basques had gathered in this town under an oak tree to reaffirm their laws. Even today, the elected head of the Basque government travels to Guernica to take his oath of office under an oak tree, "humble before God, standing on Basque soil, in remembrance of Basque ancestors, under the tree of Guernica…."
This tree, a few thousand residents, the people who had come to the market and thousands of refugees from other parts of the Basque provinces who had fled the ongoing Spanish Civil War were the only targets. Oddly, the oak tree survived.
...
(Read the rest at the
LA Times)--p!
(
Image from Wikipedia.
Replace "%58" with ":" if link does not work.)