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Edited on Sat Jan-15-11 05:06 PM by GoneOffShore
Use the buses in Paris or if you're really adventurous the Vélib. These are the free bicycles that are all around Paris. They only take Amex cards. You can buy a day ticket for a euro, get a bike out of the rack - check it before you select it because some of them are damaged. Avoid ones with the seats turned backwards as those are definitely damaged - it's the signal. You then have 30 minutes free so you can go to the next Vélib station in the neighborhood you want to see. Lots of bike lanes. Do NOT buy the Paris Visite transit ticket - get a Mobilis for each day cheaper than the Visite.
Ignore the Louvre - too big, too crowded and overwhelming. Instead, check out Carnavalet, Musee Jaquemart (they have a good restaurant as well), Hotel de Ville (free exhibits). If you want to do the Eiffel Tower, book on line before you leave and print out your tickets( or if you're taking a laptop and have printer access at your hotel, print them there) you won't have to queue for hours.
Musee Picasso is excellent, as is the Musee d'Orsay.
On our last trip in November we ate at Yves Camdebordes Le Comptoir du Relais at Carrefour d'Odeon for the 10th time. We love the food, the bustle, the people watching and the wait for tables - they don't take reservations for lunch. Dinner reservations are only taken when they are serving the prix fixe menu, which is not every night. And reservations for the prix fixe are difficult to get unless you're staying at their attached hotel Relais Saint Germain.
We also love Café Constant on rue Saint Dominique (or rue Christian Constant as it's unofficially known, because he has three restaurants on the same street). Prix fixe, modest wine list, bistro standards well executed. We did our 20th anniversary there in the upstairs room and had a great time. He also has Cocotte on the same street - a bit more upscale, innovative and fun. La Violon d'Ingres is his high end place.
Rotisserie Beaujolais - Quai de Tournelle - old school, lots of Parisians, lots of tourists, Café de Musée - rue Turenne - a new take on bistro - people from the fashion trade - in the Marais Chez Janou - rue Roger Verlomme/rue de Tournelles off the Place des Vosges - fun, hip, great chocolate mousse, Provencal food (don't get the shrimp - but everything else is good). L'Estaminet - in the Marché Enfant Rouge off of rue Bretagne- great for lunch Café Breizh - Crépes of all sorts and cider from Normandy -another one in the Marais Tour d'Argent - High end, old school, fantastic view of Notre Dame, excellent service, expensive$$$$ Chez Prosper - Place de la Nation at Blvd du Trone - right behind the taxi stand - Salads, steak frites, lots of Parisians - Service non stop - Very few tourists - Brasserie de l'Île St-Louis - Alsatian food - lots of pork and the oldest espresso machine in Paris and possibly the oldest waiters as well. If the weather's good eat outside and look at the Seine, Notre Dame and the Pantheon. Otherwise, inside and enjoy the warmth. Restaurant du Marché - in the 15th on rue Dantzig (near the George Brassens tram stop) - Innovative new bistro cuisine in an old setting. Not to be confused with the Café du Marché on the opposite end of the same street. Chez Michel 10 Rue de Belzunce 75010- near the Gare du Nord - Normandy cuisine - You definitely need reservations and is difficult to find. Afaria 15 Rue Desnouettes 75015- Basque and Landais cuisine in a very busy restaurant near Convention Metro in the 15th. Well worth the trip!!! Le Timbre-Tiny restaurant, French food, English chef - rue St Beuve Les Papilles - Better for lunch than dinner - too many UK/US patrons at night and it shows in the cooking. L'Avant Gout - Place d'Italie/Butte aux Cailles - Love the cooking here Temps des Cerises - Old line Communist owners, last of the co-operative restaurants, great vibe and good andouillette Willis Wine Bar - The place that popularized Rhone wines in the 1980's, great for lunch. rue des Petits Champs near the Palais Royale and Bibliotheque Nationale Juveniles 47 Rue de Richelieu 75001- Offshoot of Willis but a different owner -Good lunches haven't tried dinner - Fantastic wine selection - Le Pamphlet - rue Debelleyme in the Marais - elegant, delicious and can be pricey but worth it. Pizza Enzo - OK- it's not really French food, but you'll love the pizza - Montparnasse
We've actually stopped going to the really high end places - the experience sometimes doesn't equal the amount you spend.
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