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was wide awake at 430 in the morning so just went walking -- early March but night temps in the high 50s. The streets were dead empty. All the postcard racks and clutter was still packed away. I went to the Spanish Steps first and sat at the top until there was just the glow of sunrise in the eastern sky. The view of the 7 hills and the Vatican, seagulls coasting in the dawn air, the siloettes of palm trees between domiciles.
The echoes of my own footsteps on the narrow cobblestones streets. Hearing Trevi fountain and following the sound. I turn a corner and it is there. Loud, out of scale to the neighborhood and fantastic. A few more empty alleys and I am at the Pantheon. There is a cop in a small car nearby and there are cameras. But otherwise it is just me and the Hadrian's Pantheon.
Then on to Piazza Navona -- the sun is pretty much up by the time I get there. Had pastry and coffee from the only shop open then just sat in the Piazza and soaked it up for a while. Seemed like a nice, if maybe too quiet for me, neighborhood. I need to do more research on restaurants b4 next time bc I only really hit one good one in 3 days in Rome.
That day went on and on. Walked until 7 pm or so. Travestere, most of Porta Portese market, back over Tibernia, the Jewish Quarter, to the hotel for a bit, then did subways out to Cinecitta then subway to the Vatican right at sunset. Then the best meal of the trip at a trattoria. It was an epic day.
I never felt unsafe there. Even near the train station. Great shopping on Via Nazionale. Good to great gelato everywhere.
Rome delivers. To the OP: Go and enjoy!
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