question for Gearheads

[Bertha Venation]

What kind of maintenance would be required on an '05 Toyota Corolla with 106K miles on her, which has only had regular oil changes and no other regular maintenance for a couple of years?

[Tobin S.]

1. I'm not much of a gear head, but a few things come to mind

You might want to change the coolant and have the transmission serviced. You can probably find the proper service intervals for those things on the internet.

[One_Life_To_Give]

2. 502CID, T-10 and 9in Nodular Mod?

If thats the Mod with the Borg Warner Super T-10 5 Speed they are almost bulletproof and likewise for Fords 9in Nodular Iron Rear End with Detroit Locker. The real question is going to b e how much material is left on the 11in Hayes Clutch.

If this is a stock Toyota disregard the above. :evilgrin:

[guitar man]

4. Hehe

Seems I've found a doppelganger here :D


on edit...A T-10 5 speed? I thought all the T-10s were 4 speeds and the T-5 was the 5 speed?

[One_Life_To_Give]

6. My Bad

Your right the T-10 is only a 4 speed.

[guitar man]

7. And of course

The king of the 4 speeds is the Muncie M-22...I want one for my truck project so badly, but the price for a good used one has gone out of sight :wow:

[Mopar151]

11. The M-22 isn't even queen of the 4-speeds......

Kikely king is the New Process A-833 (aka HEMI) transmission, followed by the big-block version of the Ford "Top-Loader". But it's a matter of degree - if you are not on slicks or a sprayed starting line, an "ordinary" M-21, T-10, or the like is fine.

NO T-5's, or Saginaws, please!

[guitar man]

12. Well "back in the day"

It was the toughest thing I could find. I'm sure it's been surpassed over the years ;)

[Mopar151]

14. It was surpassed before it was built!

Not to say it was bad - but a lot of the difference between an M-21 and M-22 is hyperbole, especially if you are not drag racing. The "Big Input" Toploader, and the HEMI (18 spline) transmission, were High Performance, Big Block only items OE

You may wish to consider the New Process "overdrive" 4-speed, in the Chevy Pickup (OEM!)version. Has an overdrive gear where 3rd normally is, bolts up like a Muncie.

[guitar man]

15. I'm probably not familiar

Because the mopar cars I had were automatics. The 727 Torqueflite, properly built is probably the finest bracket racing transmission ever IMO .

Actually, I'm probably not going to build the old truck motor all that hot, although I would like to. I've kicked around the idea of going with vortec heads and building a high rpm, high torque banshee, but in reality I'll probably stick with the old power pack heads and build a nice little nostalgia street motor. In that case, it would be overkill to spend a ton of money on a transmission that's way overbuilt for the job

[Mopar151]

16. That's why I reccomended the Mo/Chev overdrive.....

Pretty cheap, when you find 'em! The Issue is, the splits between gears are big, so you NEED a torquey engine to make it work. The new Vortec heads from Chevy are a bargain and a half (New, with new valves and springs, less than the shop bill to redo a set of old heads), and they work very well for wide powerband engines.

[guitar man]

19. I've thought about the vortecs

From what I've been reading, the 305 vortec heads work very well on the 283 because their small 58cc chamber size will net around 9.5/1 or better compression with regular flat top pistons. Plus, they will have accessory holes which will make the power steering conversion a lot easier.

[EOTE]

3. Probably just a tuneup.

It should have a timing chain, rather than a belt, so as long as that's not worn prematurely, there should be nothing in need of replacing. Of course, having a mechanic look at it couldn't be a bad thing.

[guitar man]

5. Probably service the transmission

Maybe a tune-up and cooling system flush and refill.

[flvegan]

8. This is a timing chain Corolla, rather than a timing belt year.

That's very good. 106k, to be safe, I'd do the typical 60k routine maintenance. Oil/filter change, air filter, coolant change, transmission fluid change, spark plugs, brake inspection, rotate the tires, check the belts and hoses, etc.

[Bertha Venation]

9. I'm pretty sure we had the belt replaced at 60K

I know whe had a timing chain or belt replaced but I really thought it was a belt. :shrug: No matter.

Thanks, flvegan :)

[jmowreader]

18. Overhead cam timing chains break, just like belts do

Saabs and Mercedes have these long-ass timing chains, and they stretch then break in about the same length of time as a timing belt. Auroras too. I have a feeling Toyota chains do the same thing.

However! Unlike timing belts, timing chains will tell you when to change them. If you start the car and hear a weird clatter that you didn't hear before, change the chain.

It should be easier on a Toyota, where the engine's transverse, than on a Saab, where the timing chain end of the engine is pointing at the firewall.

[Blue_Tires]

10. also get the tires and brakes checked...

[Mopar151]

13. Change the coolant, check belts and hoses

Smell the trans fluid and look at the color... Consider changing the brake fluid the next time the brakes are serviced. If there is a "rubber band" (timing belt), make sure it is not beyond expiration.
Check the brakes, steering suspension, and wheel alignment.

[Tesha]

17. Changing the brake fluid is worthwhile.

Alcohol-based brake fluids (used in most cars) are hygroscopic;
they absorb water.

Get enough water in your brake fluid and various brake components
will start to corrode. You can head this off by having the old, getting-
water-logged brake fluid swapped out, replaced by new, dry brake
fluid. The same process "bleeds out" any air in the brake lines.

Tesha