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Stop me before I SCREW!1 Relax. It's DIY question, about screws,washers, guttering

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UTUSN Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 12:08 PM
Original message
Stop me before I SCREW!1 Relax. It's DIY question, about screws,washers, guttering
O.K., I put a short length of guttering on an edge that is over a gate because when it's raining I'm fumbling with the gate there and getting wet.

That guttering was metal and is now rusted into a hole-ly uselessness. But it was sturdy, didn't come off in big winds, was attached by four screws.

So I'm trying a vinyl/plastic type. That in itself sounds flimsy. It is held up by ONE screw per every two feet.

For starters, sounds like a washer is needed to spread out the pressure, to lessen the breaking potential, correct?!1

Now, for screws: The thicker the better? Four point or slot? Short or long?


I'm WAY too plodding and wit-less for this to be a sex thread.


Frankly, this whole vinyl thing looks like it won't last a day. Also, will need to cover with screening to keep the leaves out?
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MiddleFingerMom Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 12:15 PM
Response to Original message
1. Oh, yeah -- THIS is an "innocent" post.
.
"fumbling"
"getting wet"
"hole-ly"
"come off"
"spread"
"the thicker the better"
"short or long"
"will need to cover with screening to keep the leaves out"
.
.
I agree with the Supreme Court... I can't define pornography,
but I sure know it when I see it.
.
.
.
.
.
I like you.
.
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UTUSN Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 12:40 PM
Response to Reply #1
2. O.K., I'll do it withOUT any help!1 n/t
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jmowreader Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 06:00 PM
Response to Original message
3. If you're asking these questions, you forgot the brackets
Vinyl guttering is held to the fascia with brackets. These are connected to the front and back lips of the gutter. If you bought this guttering at Home Depot, the screws they want you to use are fucking EXPENSIVE--as in $4 for 25 screws expensive. I always refused to sell them to people--they're just 1-5/8" deck screws, which sell for less than $7 per pound, so go to the nail aisle and get a pound of 1-5/8" or longer deck screws. (I say "or longer" because if you've already got a box of 2" deck screws, they will work fine.) The brackets will spread out the load, and you'll be fine.

Next lesson: How to put the gutter connectors on. Some people attempt to shove the gutter into the space between the inner and outer sections of the gutter connector. You'll never do it. Take the outer section off and stick it out your back pocket. Shove the inner section into the first piece of the gutter. Now you have two ways to go: you can slide the outer section over the gutter, shove the second piece of gutter on and slide the outer ferrule over the joint, or shove the two pieces of gutter onto the inner ferrule, then hook the back lip of the outer ferrule over the back lip of the gutter and pry it on. "Shove" is the correct phrase--you've got to use a little muscle to get it in.

The drop outlets for the downspouts bear mention--this is where your gutter expands into and contracts out of, so the guttering is free-floating in the drop outlets. (This is another reason you don't drive screws into the guttering itself--this product expands and contracts a LOT.) You will notice lines inside the drop outlet with temperature numbers: just bring the end of the gutter to the line corresponding to the temperature today and you're good.

There's a gutter guard for vinyl gutter, yes; it's best to use the official one because it clips into the brackets holding the gutter system up.
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UTUSN Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 09:38 PM
Response to Reply #3
5. I've got brackets!1 Actually, the job is done. That it was so simple is why it will fall down.
Edited on Sat Mar-20-10 09:39 PM by UTUSN
This is only one section of (what do you call it?)---one SECTION. This is not for a front porch or place where it matters a whole lot.

There is this gate, next to the eaves of the garage. Once or twice a year you need to get to the car and it's raining, and while you're at the gate, you're getting dripped on. That is the only spot the gutter is needed, just to keep the rain off your head. I went the vinyl route to escape the rust. Besides the flimsiness, I believe the vinyl will dry out and crack with the sun, and will break where the screws are attached.

As I said, the version I got rid of was more heavy duty, metal, had four screws per bracket. But it rusted out after all these years and was useless for what it was needed the last time it rained.

But I'm saying this vinyl version's brackets are attached to the whaddyacallem, BEAMS of the eaves, by ONE screw.

Really my basic question was what type of screws to use---4 pointed, slot, round, flat---does it make any difference.

All of this will likely soon become irrelevant since I really think this vinyl crap is WAY flimsy and will fall down by wind or weight of the rain in the canal.
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UTUSN Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 09:55 PM
Response to Reply #5
6. Here are pics of the Lowe's product. If it falls down, I'll get better. It was about RUST.



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jmowreader Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 10:18 PM
Response to Reply #5
7. This vinyl crap is actually stronger than metal gutter is
The "official" screw is, as my last post on this said, a 1-5/8" deck screw. Most are Phillips-head.

Where you get strength is HOW the screws are installed--they're in at an angle, hence act as cantilevers.
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UTUSN Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 10:29 PM
Response to Reply #7
8. Haha, well, ONE of the screws is at an angle because of my banging the starter nail
with the hammer glancing off the eaves!1

Thanks for your knowledge and experience.
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jmowreader Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 10:56 PM
Response to Reply #8
9. I wish you would have posted this BEFORE you went shopping
The product you need for your house is Water Diverter. It's a piece of metal you stick up under your shingles, and it deflects the water away from whatever it's over.
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UTUSN Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Mar-21-10 10:02 AM
Response to Reply #9
10. It's not too late. These are the only pics of "water diverter" I can find
Edited on Sun Mar-21-10 10:29 AM by UTUSN
Is this it? The other entries in Google are all WORDS and I'm having trouble visualizing "metal insert under shingle at an angle" ... And, as I say, it's NOT TOO LATE for shopping, because I don't expect the vinyl crap to stay up.

Oh, and my "house" (read, "shack") is nowhere near that house in the picture. My house would fit in 1/3 of the garage of that house.

http://www.dryflekt.com/


http://www.weather.com/partnerships/homedepot/roof-repair.html?from=search_siteresults<1>

Rain Diverter
If the entry to your home is not protected by gutters chances are every time it rains water runs off the house and onto anyone trying to get in your home. Very often you can install a piece of metal to divert the rain away from the door without the hassle of installing gutters. Rain diverter metal has close to a 5-inch flange making it easy to slip under a row of shingles. Loosen the second run of shingles from the edge of the roof with a flat bar. Once loose, cut the metal piece to length with aviation sheers and slip it under the row of shingles. Once in place, push it up to the shingles and slide on side down about 7/8-inch. This will divert the water off to the side of the entryway. Carefully lift the tabs of the shingles and use two or three nails to secure. Touch up the area with roofing cement to so that no water gets behind the diverter metal.
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jmowreader Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Mar-21-10 12:00 PM
Response to Reply #10
11. Look in the display with the drip edge and Z-flashing
The "water diverter" you are looking for is ten feet long. Imagine taking a strip of galvanized sheet metal ten feet long by 8.5 inches wide. Take the first 0.5 inches of the width and fold it back upon itself. Now take the doubled metal and bend it up at a 90-degree angle. Go to the other side of the strip and measure in five inches, then bend that up at a 90-degree angle. When you're done, if you look at it from the end it will resemble a squared-off J.

To install THIS form of water diverter, you need the water diverter, a box of 1-1/2" roofing nails and a gallon of roofing cement--Henry 208 Wet Patch Roof Cement is the most popular roofing cement in America so get that. Tools include a hammer and a Roofing and Gauging trowel, which looks like a bricklayer's trowel with a pointy nose. Go up on your roof. At the sixth course of shingles, slide the water diverter underneath and kinda slide it back and forth until it won't go any farther--you have to cut through the roofing cement that seals the roof, and this is how. Once it's up there, pull it out and put a good coat of 208 on the upper side of the part that slides under your shingles. Slide it back in and gently lift up. Put some 208 on the underside, then nail it down. As a finishing touch, put a little glob of 208 over every nailhead.
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baldguy Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat Mar-20-10 06:24 PM
Response to Original message
4. Guttering?
On the North Face of the Uxbridge Road?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U0tDU37q2M
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