http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/fl20111016x1.htmlo the victor the spoils: Our first matsutake find "somewhere in western Kyoto Prefecture"; matsutake gohan that we rustled up back at home; our guide and inspiration, professional matsutake hunter Toshiaki Mizuguchi. JOHN ASHBURNE PHOTOS
The ancients were none too complimentary about their fungi. "Few of them are good, and most produce a choking sensation," wrote Marcus Athenaeus of Naucratis 1,800 years ago in "Deipnosophistae" ("Philosophers at Dinner").
The proto-vegetarian and Stoic philosopher Seneca the Younger had been equally disdainful some three centuries before that. "Mushrooms are not really food," he snooted, "but are relished to bully the sated stomach into further eating."
Seemingly, Bedouins of old were even more robustly opinionated, and wouldn't touch the things with a tent pole.
Pooh bah to the ancients and the nomads, say we.
The Japanese passion for mushrooms, and in particular the aromatic gourmet treasures that are matsutake, was documented as early as 1712 in the "Wakan Sansai Zue" encyclopedia, and kinokogari (mushroom gathering) remains, supermarkets notwithstanding, an integral part of the unchanging rhythm of countryside life.