We are what we eat
Cheaper, mass-produced foods are a huge burden on society, author argues
Dec. 11, 2006. 05:26 AM
IRA BOUDWAY
SPECIAL TO THE STAR"On the long trip from the soil to our mouths, a trip of 2,500 kilometres on average, the food we eat often passes through places most of us will never see. Michael Pollan has spent much of the past five years visiting these places on our behalf.
"Industrial food," as Pollan defines it, "is food for which you need an investigative journalist to tell you where it came from."
We have been eating such food for so long that most of us have no memory of the much shorter and less complicated food chains that once tied people to the land. We need someone, in other words, to tell us where food of any kind comes from. A long-time writer on food for the New York Times Magazine and author of the bestseller The Botany of Desire, Pollan is a good man for the job.
In his new book, The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals, Pollan traces meals across four different food chains, or, if you prefer, markets, arranged in order of popularity: a McDonald's drive-through meal, a Whole Foods dinner, a meal raised on a "beyond organic" pasture farm in Virginia, and what Pollan labels the "Perfect Meal," one whose ingredients he hunts and forages for himself.
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